We were unfortunately short of one bag when we arrived on the flight into Cambodia, which was lost somewhere between Philippines, Singapore and Cambodia. There weren't many helpful people at the airport and so after many wasted hours, and no further information, we left to get to our hostel, the Mad Monkey.
But it wasn't all bad - the good news was our friends Emma and Max were joining us here and were waiting with happy smiling faces when we arrived at the bar ;) We headed out to the river banks for a traditional Cambodian curry to welcome the new guests!
Phnom Penh has a little bit of everything - a romantic riverside, beautiful temples, historical tourist sites, large shopping malls, tamarind tree lined streets, typical Asian massage parlours, clubs, bars and restaurants!
The next day was filled touring the killing fields and other historical sites from the Cambodian genocide. It truely stunned me at how little we know about this period and how devastating it really was.
In the hostel there are signs on the walls telling the guests to be kind and generous to the locals as they have been through a lot in the last 30-40 years, but I didnt fully comprehend what was meant by this until I went to the Killing Fields.
For those of you who don't know much about the Cambodian genocide here are some details:
The Khmer Rouge subjected Cambodia to a social reform process that was aimed at creating a simple farming and self sufficient society. They separated children from their parents, controlled what the country wore, closed schools and hospitals, abolished banking and finance, outlawed all religions, destroyed the cities and private property and forced millions of people out of the cities into the farmlands to perform manual labour under terrible conditions. They worked from early morning until late at night and were fed one bowl of rice, while the remaining produce was exported to make profit for the government who tortured them.
Between 1975 to 1979 the Khmer Rouge killed 3 million people out of an 8 million population... That's almost 40% of the population. The 'enemy' included those people with soft hands ( they hadn't worked hard enough), those who wore glasses (were too intelligent), those who were educated, people who spoke foreign languages or those involved in religion. And it wasn't just that person who was identified and murdered - their whole family was executed too. Almost 300 people a day were brought to the killing fields and tortured until they murdered, in total, 1.3million people.
On the tour we were told how 'they transformed young people and adolescents whose hearts were pure, gentle and modest into odious executioners who dared to kill the innocents and even their own parents relatives and friends.' They used slogans to brainwash the Cambodian troups such as:
- To keep you is no gain. To lose you is no loss.
- Better to kill an innocent by mistake than to spare an enemy by mistake.
- To dig up the grass one must remove the roots too. Kill the whole family. Avoid revenge later in life.
In the killing fields the soldiers would play music at night to hide screams of the Cambodians being beaten to death, as bullets were too expensive to be wasted. Once they were too weak to fight back or move, their bodies would be thrown into a pit and they would be covered with DDT in order to disguise the smell and finally kill them.
There is a tree in the fields that was used to murder babies... it really did make my heart ache to relive the soldiers smashing their heads against the trees in order to murder them and torture their parents. The women were stripped naked, raped and then beaten to death. And yet the world was completely unaware what was happening...
There are over 300 killing fields in all and there are still pits filled with human remains being uncovered every day, and some aren't accessible because of land mines. During the rainy season bones and teeth are still unearthed in the softened mud...
In 3 years and 8 months of hell, the Khmer Rouge destroyed the strength of a community. In the main killing field there is a memorial stupa which has a spirit house for all those executed who cannot find rest. There are 17 levels of skulls and bones that have been arranged and labelled according to the method of execution, from being cracked with a machete to being smashed with a hammer... It is exhausting and heart breaking but the purpose of the memorial is to move from a day of anger to a day of remembrance.
Our next stop was the Chai Pronhea Yat high school, which is code named S21. It is a former high school that was used by the Khmer Rouge as a security prison and interrogation house which jailed up to 20,000 people.
There are thousands of photographs of the prisoners lining the hallways as every prisoner was photographed and required to give detailed autobiographies upon arrival. All of these were meticulously stored and are still available for viewing, the impact of these photographs staring at you cannot be explained.
After interrogation and abuse, where the prisoners were forced to admit to lies about themselves and family members, they were transported but truck to be murdered at the killing fields. Only 7 of the 20,000 prisoners ever made it out alive...
After two very emotional experiences we headed to the Kings Royal Palace and residence. The palace was beautiful and we had a very calming stroll through in the afternoon sun.
Next on the itinerary was a Cambodian massage (which was no where near as impressive as the others) and dinner at the FCC (foreign correspondents club). It is a colonial bar and restaurant which is three storeys high and has the most phenomenal views over the Tonle Sap river. What a treat! We had red wine, calamari, ticky toffee for dessert and g&ts ;)
We were up at 6.30 the next morning and onto the ferry to Siem Riep. The boat is very expensive (as compared to the cheap bus option) but it is so fast. There is not much appealing about the decor as it is dark and dreary inside but you are allowed to sit on the deck and enjoy the sunshine. The Mekong river is huge and you can't even see the edges at one point... you feel like you are in the middle if the ocean!
After the 5 hour ferry our transfer didn't arrive so we had to sit and bake in the sun until the tuk tuk arrived over an hour later! Siem Riep is famous for being hot and flat but full of vibrancy and the town is busy and bustling but the calm Siem Riep river flows calmly through the middle of the old town.
We went straight out as we didn't have breakfast or lunch and filled our bellies with Margaritas and fish tacos in the Main Street in Siem Riep.
We then hired a driver (you can hire a driver for a few days at a very reasonable rate) to drive us around Angkor to watch sunset at the world heritage site. Our first stop was at Phnom Bakheng, then onto the bridge, and finally a very brief walk around Anchor Wat.
We spent the evening having dinner and walking around the markets tasting the local deliciousness. At the hostel we tried to have a swim in the pool but it was icey cold so we didn't last very long!
The city of Angkor is made up of well over a thousand temples, some so small they are just a few piles of rocks and then the biggest religious monument in the world, Angkor Wat. There are 2 million visitors to the site every year, so we were awake and in the tuk tuk with our driver at 4.30 am to ensure we beat rpthe crowds!
They most spectacular place to watch sunrise is at Angkor Wat so we headed back there again for the morning view as opposed to last night sunset view. Angkor Wat was built between 1113 and 1150 AD and has been restored over the last century by carefully removing stone by stone and reassembling, resulting in a beautiful temple for us to explore, even though they are worn from the tourists. When we arrived it was pitch black and the locals have torches to help guide you to climb the steps and make your way through the pathways. The assistance is, of course, to be later repaid by eating at their restaurant!
Slowly the sun rises and the beauty is, only partially, ruined by the clicking of SLR cameras surrounding you! We did get some amazing pictures and the beauty is astounding. Without even realising we had spent 4 hours in the ruins!
The Small Circuit continues for seventeen kilometers and runs through major temples of Angkor Thom, Ta Phrohm, and Banteay Kdei. It also includes other highlights such as Baphoun, The Terrace of the Leper King, Terrace of the Elephants, the Twelve Prasats, Spean Thma and Sras Srang before returning to Angkor Wat. To get through it all is a long, hot, sweaty day - so be prepared!
No day in Siem Riep is complete without walking through the markets and having a pedi!
Day two was a much later start and we only met our tuk tuk after lunch. The Grand Circuit is actually an extension of the Small Circuit and runs through Preah Khan, Preah Neak Pean to the Eastern Mebon and other temple monuments of Ta Som & Preah Rup, before returning to Angkor Wat. Due to the late start, and a much slower pace, we again had a beautiful day in the temples.
While walking around you are hounded by the local peddlers who try to sell you painting, bangles, clothes etc etc etc. Some can be extremely interesting and kind, like the boy who was trying to sell me a book and must have chatted to me for at least half an hour. He told me about his parents and grand parents experiences in Cambodia and never once became aggressive about me purchasing his items, but apparently just wanted to learn more English. But on the other hand there was an awful man selling paintings, and an extremely aggressive girl selling bangles who left a very sour taste... So beware and be firm!
We got back very dusty and dirty again, had a quick shower and dinner and then walked across to the Main Street to catch the night bus. When buying the tickets I offered to sit next to a stranger, but seeing the bus it had the tiniest beds which has to be shared by two people! I was terrified about what size/type person might end up next to me but luckily I got both spots to myself! I had the best nights sleep and would definitely recommend this way to travel between Siem Riep and Phnom Penh, although my travel mates said the ride was horrendous - I am a deep sleeper!!
With another day in Phnom Penh we decided to visit the Central market which is housed in a beautiful architectural building, but sells the same bits and pieces as every other market in Asia!! We bought a few things, including matching hippie pants, and then caught a taxi to the Russian market. From there we walked through the streets enjoying the local kids and stalls on the way.
That evening we were given free drinks at the bar and endulged in the most delicious western burger at the restaurant downstairs... It was a treat after all the Asian food after the last few months!
We were up 5.30am and started our journey on the Mekong express. We had heard varying rumours about the shuttle bus but we were amazed! There are so many shuttle companies that offer to take you over the border to Vietnam but on this one we got complementary donuts, sausage rolls and water etc! My opinion is limited as once again I put my head down and was out, but apparently we crossed on a ferry and it was extremely pleasant!
When we stopped for a short break close to the border we saw a taste of the local Vietnamese food - we were so excited! The bus company was so organised, took all our passports and we had crossed over in minutes!
Cambodia was a beautiful country and I will never be able to forget the emotional experiences we had there.
If you would like to read more first hand please read First They Killed My Father' written by a little girl who grew up during the Khmer Rouge ruling.
Good morning Vietnam!!!
